The girdle is the outer edge of the diamond, where the crown (top) meets the pavilion (bottom).
A girdle may be faceted (a series of tiny polished sides going around the diamond), bruted (a single continuous unpolished surface going round the diamond; no longer common), or polished (a bruted girdle that has been polished smooth). Whether a girdle is faceted, bruted, or polished usually has no impact on the appearance or value of the diamond.
The girdle is described according to its width. Often, the width of the girdle varies at different points around the diamond, and is quoted in a range designating the thinnest and thickest point along the girdle (e.g. "Thin - Medium" means the diamond's girdle varies in width from thin at the narrowest point to medium at the widest point). Each Lumera Diamond displays the girdle width as determined by the GIA, using the following scale:
The girdle can impact a diamond in three important ways:
The thickness of the girdle affects the relative position of the surrounding facets, and so can impact cut. Because girdle width is already factored into the diamond's overall cut grade, a diamond graded as well cut will produce superior brilliance, fire, and scintillation, even if the girdle itself is not in the ideal Thin-Slightly Thick range of width.
A thick girdle (right) adds weight to a diamond. The diamond on the right is heavier, yet will appear no larger when set in a ring.
A thicker girdle will add weight to a diamond, thereby increasing its price. Since a thick girdle adds depth to a diamond but not width, a thick girdled diamond will not appear any larger when viewed from the top (e.g. when set in a piece of jewelry), despite the additional carat weight. The effect on carat weight and price is minimal, but real.
An Extremely Thin girdle is more susceptible to chipping, and for that reason should be avoided for diamonds that are to be set in a ring. Earrings or pendants are less exposed to rough contact and so are less susceptible to chipping around the girdle. Avoid both Extremely Thin and Very Thin girdles in princess cut diamonds, as this shape already has sharp corners more prone to chipping. If you do purchase a princess cut diamond with a Very Thin girdle, consider setting it in a style that covers and protects the corners.